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Diorse — Guides — Jewellery materials
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Guides — No. 03

Jewellery materials

The gold alloys we use, and why most of our pieces are made by hand rather than cast.

I

Gold alloys

Eighteen carats means seventy-five parts in a hundred.

The remaining quarter decides the colour and the hardness. Copper warms it, silver and palladium cool it. We use 18k throughout, because it holds a stone securely and keeps its colour for decades.

Gold alloys — supporting photograph

We use 18k throughout, for security and for colour that lasts.

II

Yellow, white, champagne

Three golds, three temperatures.

Yellow gold warms a stone and flatters near-colourless diamonds. White gold is plated in rhodium and brightens cool stones. Champagne sits between the two and suits most skin tones.

Yellow, white, champagne — supporting photograph

Choose the metal by the stone it will hold.

III

Why we rarely cast

Metal that is worked by hand is denser.

Casting is fast and suits complex forms. Forging and hand-fabrication compress the metal, which makes a band stronger and a claw less likely to lift. Most of our rings are made this way.

Why we rarely cast — supporting photograph

Hand-worked metal is denser, and it lasts longer.